Machine stitched bogu comes in a variety of stitching widths ranging from 8 millimeter to 2 millimeter. The concept is simple to understand, the tighter the stitching the more compressed the futon becomes making it stiffer and offering more protection. The downside to machine stitched bogu is that it comes in predetermined sizes, increasing size in increments of two centimeters, which at times may offer complications for those that are between sizes.
Hand stitched bogu is usually, although not always the case, a better quality set of equipment, and is usually made to measure, providing the practitioner with a very comfortable well fitted set of bogu. Hand stitched, or tezashi bogu, also have varying stitching widths, measured in Bu, varying from 2.0 Bu to 0.8 Bu. A bu is a Japanese form of measurement based on the shaku and came be traced back hundreds of years to it’s origins in China. 1 bu equals 3.030 millimeters. You can usual tell tezashi bogu apart from machine stitched from its stitching pattern. Tezashi bogu is stitched in a vertical and horizontal pattern creating a checkerboard impression on the gear where machine stitched is generally sewn in only one direction.
Some will say that when it comes to hand stitched bogu that it is some what of a status symbol, saying that you have spent time in the art and are committed to it; therefore you have made the investment. Some, if not all, that have reached the higher levels of the art almost expect it of each other. It is not unusual to upgrade one’s equipment as one moves up in rank. However, it may be considered slightly over the top if a beginner decides to purchase a tezashi bogu right off the bat.
While studying in Japan I had the opportunity to visit one of Japan’s top bogu masters, Mr. Umezawa. His small generations old shop is located in Saitama Prefecture. Mr. Umezawa mentioned to me that in order to place an order with him a customer had to be of a higher level and display good form and character before he would even consider placing the customer on his two year waiting list. Mr. Umezawa’s bogu start at about $10,000.
Tezashi bogu made in Japan usually start at about $2000, although bogu manufacturers are springing up in China and Korea offering tezashi bogu starting at about $900. Machine stitched bogu prices range from $400 to $2000 depending on stitching and material used.

